Sprint Tri.... bike??
I have a long term goal of doing a sprint triathlon. There are "super sprints" offered weekly on the beach during the spring, but I don't know if I will even be ready for those.
I was looking up training tips and programs and followed a link to a Tri bike. $2300? Can I do the shorter distance sprint tri's on something a little cheaper? Any suggestions?
I was looking up training tips and programs and followed a link to a Tri bike. $2300? Can I do the shorter distance sprint tri's on something a little cheaper? Any suggestions?
You can do the longer distances with Road Bikes. But for sprints and super sprints pretty much any bike will do.
Paul C.
First 5K 9/27/20 46:32 - 11 weeks post op (PR 28:55 8/15/11)
First 10K 7/04/2011 1:03 First 15K 9/18/2011 1:37
First Half Marathon 10/02/2011 2:27:44 (PR 2:24:35)
First Half Ironman 9/30/12 7:32:04
First 5K 9/27/20 46:32 - 11 weeks post op (PR 28:55 8/15/11)
First 10K 7/04/2011 1:03 First 15K 9/18/2011 1:37
First Half Marathon 10/02/2011 2:27:44 (PR 2:24:35)
First Half Ironman 9/30/12 7:32:04
I've done two Ironmans on a road bike. The tri bikes are for people who want to shave every second off their time they can. You see people doing Sprint tris with every kind of bike, even mountain bikes!
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I lived those dreams early on.
Don't jump at the first bike you can get just to get going. It's what I did. I bought the "cheapest good bike" I could find. It mostly met my goals and it did ok for the first year, give or take. But it didn't hold up to the stress of all the riding I was doing. I ended up with it in the shop numerous times and the money I paid on repairs would have bought me a better bike to begin with.
The pieces and parts (components of the bike) is where the manufacturers really save money. They put cheaper and cheaper parts on the bike to get the price down. For the casual rider this probably isn't a big deal, but if you put on lots of miles and are considering racing, then it does matter.
It is very frustrating to be fighting with your equipment. It's tough enough to be challenging your body and trying to get your best performance, but to throw in a bike that doesn't want to shift right or had bad braking or an uncomfortable seat just compounds the issue.
Remember you don't have to buy new. check with local bike stores, often they have rental bikes and they will sell previous years models at a discount. I purchased a brand new last years bike for 30% off.
You can also check with local cycling clubs, often there are people who are upgrading or downsizing their collection of bikes. It's amazing how many of these riders will have multiple bikes.
You have a great goal. Good luck!
Scott
Don't jump at the first bike you can get just to get going. It's what I did. I bought the "cheapest good bike" I could find. It mostly met my goals and it did ok for the first year, give or take. But it didn't hold up to the stress of all the riding I was doing. I ended up with it in the shop numerous times and the money I paid on repairs would have bought me a better bike to begin with.
The pieces and parts (components of the bike) is where the manufacturers really save money. They put cheaper and cheaper parts on the bike to get the price down. For the casual rider this probably isn't a big deal, but if you put on lots of miles and are considering racing, then it does matter.
It is very frustrating to be fighting with your equipment. It's tough enough to be challenging your body and trying to get your best performance, but to throw in a bike that doesn't want to shift right or had bad braking or an uncomfortable seat just compounds the issue.
Remember you don't have to buy new. check with local bike stores, often they have rental bikes and they will sell previous years models at a discount. I purchased a brand new last years bike for 30% off.
You can also check with local cycling clubs, often there are people who are upgrading or downsizing their collection of bikes. It's amazing how many of these riders will have multiple bikes.
You have a great goal. Good luck!
Scott