Forget the pain at the pump......
I know they are charging a "fuel surcharge" on my electricity bill. It is not my fault that it is so hot and everyone is running their units to the max to cool off. To try to combat the high bill, I have cut down to make sure when I wash clothes that it is a full load, the dishwasher is fully loaded etc. I also curbed other spending habit because I refuse to work so hard and be hot in my own house.
People are so worried about what they eat between Christmas and the New Year, but they really should be worried about what they eat between the New Year and Christmas. ~Author Unknown
I feel you on the Texas electric bill.
Our house (2000 sf, built in '83, all electric), was constructed back when energy-efficiency was not a big concern. Our summer bills were ridiculously high ($400-range
) so we did a few things to lower them.
We started with an energy audit from the local electric company. They sent an energy efficiency expert to evaluate and correct air leakage in the heat/AC system, caulk all door/window/vent openings and give before & after air flow readings to validate the changes.
Turned out that the ducts that carry the air were leaking the cooled or heated air into the attic big time since the duct tape (they no longer use it in current systems in hot climates) at all the connections had lost its adhesion and basically melted off up there over time. They sealed all that up. They also installed foam seals in every electric outlet and light switch. They used spray foam around every plumbing inlet.
Total cost was $0 to us
, as the utility does this on grant money from the feds! I highly suggest contacting your local utility to inquire about this service!
Even though the windows are dual-paned glass, they need replacing due to heat transfer. We got estimates and they are really high to replace them with truly energy-efficient windows, but we were given the budget-friendly way to stop the heat transfer: shade screens on the outside coupled with residential tint on the inside gets you 90% of the efficiency as replacement windows.
First, we installed shade-screens on the outsides of the 5 windows which drew in the most light/heat. It made an immediate difference in how much heat enters the house. Looks great too. We got estimates for having it done ($120/window installed), but being frugal, we did this ourselves for $18/window with supplies from Home Depot.
Next, we looked into residential window tinting. Estimates to have it done were also high ($980), so back to Depot we went. They sell Gila residential tint which cost $220 to tint every window in our house by doing this ourselves. It was even a fun weekend project! Stopped the heat the very second it made glass contact.
The other point made by the auditors was that our refrigerator was a '94 model, before energy-star ratings. The fridge is the second biggest user of electric just after your heat/AC system. We did wait until it acted up (made a loud thump when the compressor shut off), but replaced it with a new energy-star model just last summer.
Bottom line: electric bills went from $400 range in summer to $200 range
with these changes. We still need to get attic work to complete the deal (radiant barrier & more insulation), but those can wait until budget allows.
I shoud add, Hubby & I cant stand a hot house. Summer thermostat stays set at 72; winter at 70. We have a programmable digital thermostat, but only change it while on vacation.
Our house (2000 sf, built in '83, all electric), was constructed back when energy-efficiency was not a big concern. Our summer bills were ridiculously high ($400-range
) so we did a few things to lower them. We started with an energy audit from the local electric company. They sent an energy efficiency expert to evaluate and correct air leakage in the heat/AC system, caulk all door/window/vent openings and give before & after air flow readings to validate the changes.
Turned out that the ducts that carry the air were leaking the cooled or heated air into the attic big time since the duct tape (they no longer use it in current systems in hot climates) at all the connections had lost its adhesion and basically melted off up there over time. They sealed all that up. They also installed foam seals in every electric outlet and light switch. They used spray foam around every plumbing inlet.
Total cost was $0 to us
, as the utility does this on grant money from the feds! I highly suggest contacting your local utility to inquire about this service!Even though the windows are dual-paned glass, they need replacing due to heat transfer. We got estimates and they are really high to replace them with truly energy-efficient windows, but we were given the budget-friendly way to stop the heat transfer: shade screens on the outside coupled with residential tint on the inside gets you 90% of the efficiency as replacement windows.
First, we installed shade-screens on the outsides of the 5 windows which drew in the most light/heat. It made an immediate difference in how much heat enters the house. Looks great too. We got estimates for having it done ($120/window installed), but being frugal, we did this ourselves for $18/window with supplies from Home Depot.
Next, we looked into residential window tinting. Estimates to have it done were also high ($980), so back to Depot we went. They sell Gila residential tint which cost $220 to tint every window in our house by doing this ourselves. It was even a fun weekend project! Stopped the heat the very second it made glass contact.
The other point made by the auditors was that our refrigerator was a '94 model, before energy-star ratings. The fridge is the second biggest user of electric just after your heat/AC system. We did wait until it acted up (made a loud thump when the compressor shut off), but replaced it with a new energy-star model just last summer.
Bottom line: electric bills went from $400 range in summer to $200 range
with these changes. We still need to get attic work to complete the deal (radiant barrier & more insulation), but those can wait until budget allows. I shoud add, Hubby & I cant stand a hot house. Summer thermostat stays set at 72; winter at 70. We have a programmable digital thermostat, but only change it while on vacation.
Open RNY/GB removal/appendectomy4/99; -132lbs; Re-gained 40lbs by '09; Now w/in 20lbs of goal/low wt
I feel ya. Energy prices are getting rediculous, even down here in the south. My house is not the most energy effecient. We thought it would be cool having 16 ft ceilings. Until you try to heat and cool that mofo. I have to keep my AC on 80 during the day. Anything lower and it will just run all day non stop and land me a $300 bill. I bought one of those hi speed thermostats with the timers that turns the AC off or raises/lowers the temp at certain times. But can't use that mofo now since the inlaws are home all day.
When they leave next month and when my son is back in school, there will be at least 5 hours per day when no one is in the house. At least 4 hours and 50 minutes of that time my thermostat will be turned off. No sense in cooling that mofo when we aint there. That'll be about 25 hours a week that I won't be using that AC.
When they leave next month and when my son is back in school, there will be at least 5 hours per day when no one is in the house. At least 4 hours and 50 minutes of that time my thermostat will be turned off. No sense in cooling that mofo when we aint there. That'll be about 25 hours a week that I won't be using that AC.
No Retreat! No Surrender!
Did you see the report that came out yesterday Baltimore & Houston have the highest utility bills in the country!!!! Gas & Electric are high in both cities due to deregulation. One month this winter my gas & electril bill was over $600! I'm not complaining because I know people whose gas & electric bills have been as high as $1,300 after this deregulation ****z. How's a sister supposed to survive????
Change is a Process Not an Event
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