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I bought a low exercise pen to keep the new dog contained while I was away.  She still hates being in a kennel or room with the door shut (due to her past).  She still will pee on the floor if I'm gone more than an hour or so.  Well I put her in it and came home 30 min later and she met me at the door.  So I took it back to the store and got out my tall one that's alot higher than the new one.  I put her in it and started to leave, I look back and there she is at the top of it!  Her head was over the top and her front paws were about to follow.  She climbs straight up the pen walls!  I've never seen a dog do that before.  She does great with the potty thing if I am home or take her with me.  It's only if I leave her she has an accident.  I think it may be her getting back at me for leaving her.  I just walked across the street and was back in less than 10 min and when I came up the driveway I could here her howling.  She isn't 10 pounds as they told me at the time of adoption, she's only 7 pounds.  I had the Vet's office weigh her yesterday when I got her heartworm prevention etc.  The last two days she has gone everywhere with me.  I know I can't always take her with me, so any suggestions to how I keep her from getting upset and/or peeing when I leave her? 

Welll, even tho she hates it, kennel training her would be the best solution.  It would contain Houdini, and dogs generally dislike soiling their own quarters, so both issues - probably solved.  I'm guessing you knew that, but I really can't think of any better solution.  She will probably learn to love her kennel.  Hazel really DOES love hers - we trained her to be in it from the day we brought her home, and now all we have to do is SAY "kennel", and she zips right in it!

That's the way I've always done it in the past as well. start kennel training from day one.  But I've always had a puppy not a 4 year old who's been "abused" if you will by a kennel.  I wish she didn't hate it so much.

I used to work with a dog trainer so she taught me a lot... but I'm at work so I can't type a whole lot. Here is a good article I found:

http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/our_pets_for_life_program/ dog_behavior_tip_sheets/separation_anxiety.html

Why Do Dogs Suffer from Separation Anxiety?

We don't fully understand why some dogs suffer from separation anxiety and, under similar cir****tances, others don't. It's important to realize, however, that the destruction and house soiling that often occur with separation anxiety are not the dog's attempt to punish or seek revenge on his owner for leaving him alone. In reality, they are actually part of a panic response.

Separation anxiety sometimes occurs:

• When a dog accustomed to constant human companionship is left alone for the first time.
• Following a long interval, such as a vacation, during which the owner and dog are constantly together.
• After a traumatic event (from the dog's point of view), such as a period of time spent at a shelter or boarding kennel.
• After a change in the family's routine or structure (such as a child leaving for college, a change in work schedule, a move to a new home, or a new pet or person in the home).

How Do I Know If My Dog Has Separation Anxiety?

Because there are many reasons for the behaviors associated with separation anxiety, it's essential to correctly diagnose the reason for the behavior before proceeding with treatment. If most, or all, of the following statements are true about your dog, he may have a separation anxiety problem:

• The behavior occurs exclusively or primarily when he's left alone.
• He follows you from room to room whenever you're home.
• He displays effusive, frantic greeting behaviors.
• The behavior always occurs when he's left alone, whether for a short or long period of time.
• He reacts with excitement, depression, or anxiety to your preparations to leave the house.
• He dislikes spending time outdoors by himself.

What to Do If Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety

For a minor separation anxiety problem, the following techniques may be helpful by themselves. For more severe problems, these techniques should be used along with the desensitization process described in the next section.

• Keep arrivals and departures low-key. For example, when you arrive home, ignore your dog for the first few minutes, then calmly pet him. This may be hard for you to do, but it's important!
• Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like you—such as an old t-shirt that you've slept in recently.
• Establish a "safety cue"—a word or action that you use every time you leave that tells your dog you'll be back. Dogs usually learn to associate certain cues with short absences by their owners. For example, when you take out the garbage, your dog knows you come right back and doesn't become anxious. Therefore, it's helpful to associate a safety cue with your short-duration absences.

  Some examples of safety cues are a playing radio, a playing television, or a toy (one that doesn't have dangerous fillings and can't be torn into pieces). Use your safety cue during practice sessions with your dog. Be sure to avoid presenting your dog with the safety cue when you leave for a period of time longer than he can tolerate; if you do, the value of the safety cue will be lost. Leaving a radio on to provide company for your dog isn't particularly useful by itself, but a playing radio may work if you've used it consistently as a safety cue in your practice sessions. If your dog engages in destructive chewing as part of his separation distress, offering him a chewing item as a safety cue is a good idea. Very hard rubber toys that can be stuffed with treats and Nylabone®-like products are good choices.

Desensitization Techniques for More Severe Cases of Separation Anxiety

The primary treatment for more severe cases of separation anxiety is a systematic process of getting your dog used to being alone. You must teach your dog to remain calm during "practice" departures and short absences. We recommend the following procedure:

• Begin by engaging in your normal departure activities (getting your keys, putting on your coat), then sit back down. Repeat this step until your dog shows no distress in response to your activities.
• Next, engage in your normal departure activities and go to the door and open it, then sit back down.
• Next, step outside the door, leaving the door open, then return.
• Finally, step outside, close the door, then immediately return. Slowly get your dog accustomed to being alone with the door closed between you for several seconds.
• Proceed very gradually from step to step, repeating each step until your dog shows no signs of distress. The number of repetitions will vary depending on the severity of the problem. If at any time in this process your actions produce an anxiety response in your dog, you've proceeded too fast. Return to an earlier step in the process and practice this step until the dog shows no distress response, then proceed to the next step.
• Once your dog is tolerating your being on the other side of the door for several seconds, begin short-duration absences. This step involves giving the dog a verbal cue (for example, "I'll be back"), leaving, and then returning within a minute. Your return must be low-key: Either ignore your dog or greet him quietly and calmly. If he shows no signs of distress, repeat the exercise. If he appears anxious, wait until he relaxes to repeat the exercise. Gradually increase the length of time you're gone.
• Practice as many absences as possible that last less than ten minutes. You can do many departures within one session if your dog relaxes sufficiently between departures. You should also scatter practice departures and short-duration absences throughout the day.
• Once your dog can handle short absences (30 to 90 minutes), he'll usually be able to handle longer intervals alone and you won't have to repeat this process every time you are planning a longer absence. The hard part is at the beginning, but the job gets easier as you go along. Nevertheless, you must go slowly at first. How long it takes to condition your dog to being alone depends on the severity of his problem.

Teaching the Sit-Stay and Down-Stay

Another technique for reducing separation anxiety in your dog is practicing the common "sit-stay" or "down-stay" training exercises using positive reinforcement. Your goal is to be able to move briefly out of your dog's sight while he remains in the "stay" position, and thereby teach your dog that he can remain calmly and happily in one place while you go to another. To do this, you gradually increase the distance you move away from your dog. As you progress, you can do this during the course of your normal daily activities. For example, if you're watching television with your dog by your side and you get up for a snack, tell him to stay, and leave the room. When you come back, give him a treat or praise him quietly. Never punish your dog during these training sessions.

Interim Solutions

Because the treatments described above can take a while, and because a dog with separation anxiety can do serious damage to himself and/or your home in the interim, consider these suggestions to help you and your dog cope in the short term:

• Consult your veterinarian about the possibility of drug therapy. A good anti-anxiety drug should not sedate your dog, but simply reduce his anxiety while you're gone. Such medication is a temporary measure and should be used in conjunction with behavior modification techniques.
• Take your dog to a dog day care facility or boarding kennel.
• Leave your dog with a friend, family member, or neighbor.
• Take your dog to work with you, even for half a day, if possible.

What Won't Help a Separation Anxiety Problem

• Punishing your dog. Punishment is not an effective way to treat separation anxiety. In fact, punishing your dog after you return home may actually increase his separation anxiety.
• Getting another pet as a companion for your dog. This usually doesn't help an anxious dog because his anxiety is the result of his separation from you, his person, not merely the result of being alone.
• Crating your dog. Your dog will still engage in anxiety responses in the crate. He may urinate, defecate, howl, or even injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate.
• Leaving the radio on (unless the radio is used as a "safety cue," as described above).
• Training your dog. While formal training is always a good idea, it won't directly help a separation anxiety problem. Separation anxiety is not the result of disobedience or lack of training; it's a panic response.

Thanks this may be really helpful!

Aren't they cute!!!  But you have to keep her kenneled when you are gone -- she is doing this because you are gone and she's upset.  They are cute but just like with children, you have to be tough when it comes to training --- this is her temper tantrum like a little toddler.  If she can shake or whine and get out of the kennel, she is going to do it to the max -- she's training you.  Just like a toddler having a temper tantrum and you giving in -- hmmmm, I only have to scream for 10 minutes and I'll get my way.

Sophie hated her kennel too.  Instead of a punishment, it turned into her safety zone, especially when we were gone.  We put it in our walk in closet and we keep the door open -- dark, quiet, can still go in and out when she wants, blocks out house noise, etc.  We say "let's go night-night" and she actually will run to it and hop right in.  I bought a full surround wire kennel that has a top on it so she couldn't get out.  It is big enough that her bed is in i****er and food, plus some roaming room.  And they won't have accidents where they eat and sleep.  We shut the door when we were gone, but leave the door open when we are home.  She has another bed in another part of the house so she doesn't have to use the kennel during the time we are home if she doesn't want to, but 9 out of 10 times she's in it with the door open.  Nice and quiet and dark.

I have an extra we use for travel I can borrow you if you want to try it for a while.  It will fit a bed and you can also put a small water and food dish inside too.  We aren't going anywhere anytime soon.  Let me know....it's Burnsville Center coffee this weekend and I can meet you there.  If it turns out she gets used to it, then you can purchase one and I'll get mine back.

XXOO

 

I have always crate trained my dogs with success, but with her spending the first 4 years of her life in a cage she is truly traumatized by it.  I took it out night before last after not letting her see it for days.  I tried to give her a break from even looking at it.  The min she saw it her head and tail went down, her knees bent and she started slinking away from me. 

Millie, my last dog loved her kennel.  I left it in the corner of the kitchen and she would come and go out of it as she pleased.  At night I'd say let's go Nigh, Nigh and she'd run right to it.  I'd give her a half a Beggin strip and she was down for the night.

I haven't tried the full cage kennel.  I hoped with the X-pen she'd be ok because she could see all around.  Maybe with a full cage kennel she might fell a bit better.  I do know that some dogs will potty in the kennel if it's big enough.  They will potty in the back and lay in the front, that's why you shouldn't get them to big.

I will try to make it to coffe on Saturday, hubby comes home tomorrow so I'll have to play it by ear till I know if he has any plans.  Thanks for the offer I'm willing to give it a shot.

Aren't dogs amazing!?!?! Mine can get out of an 'H' style harness. Crazy. Anyway, my sister had two dogs and when the one passed away the other was terribly lonely when left home during the day and would cry a blood curdling whine. They started leaving the radio on for her and that helped. Good luck with your new baby

I left the tv on once but maybe she couldn't hear it.

I'm sorry your new love is having SA.  It's hard!    Definately some dogs prefer a solid crate vs wire or vice versa.  Our adopted dog, Colby was crated 18 hours a day, with a mid day break because his owner worked two jobs.  He still hates being crated, but does SO much better in an all wire crate, right next to his brother.  His poor little teeth are worn almost down to the gums, and once he hears we've returned from being gone, he drools like mad.  If you haven't tried the different types of crates, I would suggest that.  And since she sounds like a little girl, I don't think I saw what breed, maybe a softsided one?  And I think working slowly, crating her for very short periods of time and keep building and building and see if that helps her get used to it.  Also, I'm a fan of a Kong with peanut butter to keep them occupied for a bit.  Freezing it is even better, takes them longer to lick the frozen yum yum out.  Our current foster dog, Clay has SA.  He would have accidents in his prior home no matter what they tried. Crating, confining to one room, leaving loose.  He hasn't had a single accident here with us and we'll have had him 1 year next month.  (He's a sad story, he injured his eye in his 2nd home, and they tried to repair the damage, but his vision didn't return. When we fostered him last year, we had his eye removed since we were concerned he was in pain. He turned into a much happier dog after the eye removal)  Here is Clay:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v641/shopsalott/CLay/clayn ewhome2.jpg

And my guys:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v641/shopsalott/riley_colb y_lay1.jpg